If you've poked around in other people's tack boxes as much as I have, you've probably seen saddles stored around toilet paper tubes. The main purpose for this is to train the saddle's flaps to stay in a curved shape and lie flat against the model's sides. It's a cheap and effective way to do that, but something about the toilet paper tube seems so wrong to me... I just had to come up with a better way to get that shape.
This is what I came up with--I place a hidden wire in the small roll of leather that runs down the front of the flaps. This allows the saddle to maintain its shape without any special "training". In this picture the wire is holding the flap up and out.
Since that's probably not the look you're going for, here's how to change it. Pinch the front of the flap with your fingers and gently bend the wire into the desired position. You can also do this while the saddle is on the horse.
Ta da! The flaps on this brand new saddle hug the horse's sides, and you will not need to keep toilet paper tubes in your tack box!
I am happiest when my model tack closely mirrors real tack in all particulars. However, sometimes less really is more. I used to put buckles on my stirrup leathers, but I didn't like the extra bit of bulk they put under the skirt. Now I use a different method that reduces bulk while allowing for adjustment.
Since that's probably not the look you're going for, here's how to change it. Pinch the front of the flap with your fingers and gently bend the wire into the desired position. You can also do this while the saddle is on the horse.
Ta da! The flaps on this brand new saddle hug the horse's sides, and you will not need to keep toilet paper tubes in your tack box!
I am happiest when my model tack closely mirrors real tack in all particulars. However, sometimes less really is more. I used to put buckles on my stirrup leathers, but I didn't like the extra bit of bulk they put under the skirt. Now I use a different method that reduces bulk while allowing for adjustment.
To shorten your leathers, gently pull down on the free end.
You can lengthen the leathers by pulling on the backside of the piece that loops through the iron.
The third thing I like about my saddles is that they're tough. Like the great tackmaker Susan Bensema-Young, I value the "playability" factor. I don't think you should have to worry about breaking things every time you use them. My saddles are built on a metal tree that is both strong and flexible. The interior sections are both glued and sewn together. Likewise, the padded flaps are secured with glue and thread, as are the pressure points on the girth. I'm sure it's possible to break a Braymere saddle, but I think you'd have to work at it a bit!
So that's today's happy list. Tomorrow I'll be right back at the impossible pursuit of perfection.
You can lengthen the leathers by pulling on the backside of the piece that loops through the iron.
The third thing I like about my saddles is that they're tough. Like the great tackmaker Susan Bensema-Young, I value the "playability" factor. I don't think you should have to worry about breaking things every time you use them. My saddles are built on a metal tree that is both strong and flexible. The interior sections are both glued and sewn together. Likewise, the padded flaps are secured with glue and thread, as are the pressure points on the girth. I'm sure it's possible to break a Braymere saddle, but I think you'd have to work at it a bit!
So that's today's happy list. Tomorrow I'll be right back at the impossible pursuit of perfection.


















but that wasn't always the case! As an aside, aren't those cliffs amazing? They were full of caves, one of which was home to a mama bear and her cub.
This last picture shows the back of the herd passing through the 
Cherokee seemed quiet enough at first but within a few weeks he'd bucked off two people. One was a guest, but the other was a staff member who had a fair amount of riding experience. At that point our choices were to send him back to Sombrero or assign him to a wrangler. Since we had a lot of horses that were worse, he became my mount.
It did not take me long to figure out that Cherokee's main problem was that he was very young and very green. He knew start and stop but almost nothing beyond that. I spent a lot of extra time with him and he rewarded the effort by quickly learning to respond to increasingly lighter and lighter cues.
I did get back on Cherokee (after a shower!) and ride him in the round up. He behaved perfectly and I was willing to keep on with him. Sadly, my boss was less forgiving. She'd seen the whole thing and decided that he was a liability the ranch couldn't afford. Despite my protests, he went back to Sombrero less than a week later.

Kristie asked me if I could make a stall guard for Midnight's door. She sent me this picture for reference,


Sometimes, however, I do use Rio Rondo d-rings. I don't particularly like their shape for a hunter type bridle, but they look good on dressage bridles (particularly in the gold color), harnesses and all sorts of other things. Simply clip the d-ring off the sheet, sand off the stem and add a buckle tongue.
One other thing I neglected to address last time is the proper length for a buckle's tongue. I often see buckles that look a lot like this when I'm cruising
Both those buckles are functional, but because their tongues are much too long, neither looks particularly polished. For comparison's sake, here are some close up pictures of full size buckles.
Note the tongue length--it does not extend out over the top of the buckle.
Fortunately, this is an easy problem to fix. Here is a picture of the same two buckles after I've trimmed their tongues with my wire cutters. Not only do they look a lot neater, but they're also easier to use.







