Up to trying something new for NaMoPaiMo? I suggest Pan Pastels! Here’s my entire palette that I own:
- Yellow Ochre Tint
- Yellow Ochre
- Burnt Sienna
- Burnt Sienna Shade
- Red Ironoxide Ex Dark
- Raw Umber
- Paynes Grey
- Titanium White
|Stephanie's Pan Pastel collection|
|Bennett resin painted by Stephanie Blaylock|
- Go light to dark layering your colors.
- Use separate brushes for light and dark colors. You will need to seal colors in between the layers. I recommend Krylon GLOSS Crystal Clear for the first smoothing layer and then Testor’s Dullcote for the rest.
- Pastels are applied with scruffy brushes. Brushes that you have trimmed down with scissors. You make a circular motion to apply. The stiffer the brush the heavier the color applies. Too stiff and you can scrape your sealer off. I like a medium bristle brush.
- Think of shading as you apply. For instance, if you apply every color right on top of the last you just get a solid color horse. You want to leave softer areas such as the throat-latch, gaskin, elbows and then pastel other areas more dramatic like cheeks, poll, shoulders, haunches.
- The average horse is five to eight layers. The lighter the horse is the less you layer. One neat trick is using your white or grey to lighten areas such as the muzzle.
|Some of Stephanie's brushes|
|Trick medallion painted by Stephanie Blaylock|
Extra things to make your pastel choice easier... hand wipes so colors don’t transfer, paper plates, & paper towels. I also use an acrylic gloss glaze such as Liquitex for eyes.
|Breyer G1 stablemates painted by Stephanie Blaylock|
|Stephanie Blaylock's 2018 NaMoPaiMo horse and winner of the Breyerfest Best Customs contest for in Finishwork Excellence.|
(Allie: I was thrilled to have TJ respond to my inquiry. Her appaloosas are some of the best in the hobby. The attention to the smallest detail makes them look like the color was magically lifted off a real appaloosa and attached to a model. Although pastels are beginner friendly TJ’s technique demonstrates an advanced application.)
I paint only Appaloosas and have found that pastels (both stick and pan types) and earth pigments work best for me and my style and technique.
I use a "stippling" effect to apply the pastels, using micro mini-brushes, and rubber tipped paint erasers. I always start with a plain white "canvas," letting the primer be my base coat. Next I apply the pinks to inside the ears, muzzle, eyelids and genital areas. (I do use a small soft brush for this) and seal. Then I start adding med to dark gray over the pinks for the mottling. I generally rough in the whole Appy pattern in light and dark grays before the coat color begins. For heavy roaning, I just dab short, small strokes/dots of pastel in a random way, leaving white showing through, being careful to follow the direction of hair flow. Then for the next layers I do the same - much like the hair by hair technique artists use with paint, but SO much faster. It is more "impressionistic" than "realistic" but gives the look of roaning as well. Then I just keep adding layers of color, working toward the desired effect, always working light-to-dark with the pastels.
I like pastels because I can do multiple layers really fast, not having to wait for paint to dry. I do paint the eyes and chestnuts with acrylics though.