Build a bridle

I missed a step when I was prepping the straps for my IMTM bridle. Because I am using handcut tooling calf rather than precut kangaroo lace, I should have sealed those straps with a coat of Satin Shene or similar leather finish. I did that today, plus treated the edges with brown Edge Kote.

Typically, I would also use either a stitch marker or edge creaser to add in some extra detail. In this case, however, the real bridle has unadorned straps, so mine will, too.

While my straps are drying, I start working on the kangaroo lace curb strap. I skive one end and bend it back on itself. Using a sharp X-acto knife, I cut a slit for the buckle tongue. Then I thread the buckle onto the strap and glue everything in place.

Now that the buckle is easier to hold, I use wire cutters to snip off the excess buckle tongue and a file to make the cut end a bit less pointy.

Much better! 

I cut the opposite end into a point, then I use a mallet and a mechanical pencil - in this case, a size 03 Staedtler - to make a neat row of tiny holes.

There they are!

Using the two keepers I made the previous day, I thread the curb strap onto the bit and buckle it together.

Onto the cheekpieces! I carefully skive the bit ends of each strap, fold them around the bit and glue into place.

So far so good.

Now it gets a little trickier. I hold the bit and cheekpiece against the model and mark where I want the buckle to go.

I fold the strap over at that point and recheck the measurement on each side. The classic adage "measure twice, cut once" definitely applies here!

Once I'm absolutely certain I've got it right, I trim the strap and carefully skive the bend and the folded tab.

I place the metal keeper over the strap then thread the buckle into place.

I secure everything with a dab of glue, trim the buckle tongues and add the conchos.

Normally, I would glue those directly onto the leather, but since these are domed, I tried something a little different. Using Loctite super glue gel, I glued a tiny piece of skived down leather into inside of the dome. This fills in the raised part, creating more surface area for the concho to strap attachment. It's a fiddley step, and perhaps not worth the effort, but I want my tack to be as durable as possible.

Once one side is done, I repeat everything - minus the measuring - on the other.

I cut a point into one end of the crown piece and add another line of tiny holes.

I buckle this into a cheekpiece and run the unfinished side through the other cheekpiece. I drape the headstall over the model's head and fold the unfinished side where the buckle should be.  

I punch a single hole and buckle the cheekpiece into that. Then I put the bridle back on the horse to double check the sizing.

If it's good - and this was - I punch the rest of the holes, cut off the extra strap and point the tip. Now the crownpiece is done.

The thoatlatch is next. This one is easy. Simply measure, point on end, attach a buckle to the other, trim the buckle tongues and punch more holes.

At this point, all that's left is the browband. I skive one end of that strap, make a tab and glue a tiny keeper around the doubled up section. I slide the throatlatch into the open loop and pull everything snugly into place. 

I lay the crownpiece against the other side of the keeper and glue the loose end of the strap to the back of the browband. I put the bridle back on the horse, measure and fold the other side of the browband and repeat the process.

I glue the conchos onto the browband keeper, and just like that, the headstall portion of this bridle is finished.

Well, mostly finished anyway. There will be some touch-ups and nit-picks - there always are - but for now, it's done enough to go back in the job box.

And that's where it will remain until I have time to work on this again!