Choosing a versatile performance horse

The most important part of any performance entry is the horse. The tack, the props and the doll are all secondary. If the horse isn't right, the entry just won't work.

With that in mind, today's post is all about selecting a versatile performance horse that can easily be shown in a  wide variety of classes.   

One of the first things to consider when choosing an all around performance horse is gait. Standing, walking, trotting and cantering models are generally the best choices for a novice shower. Models in more dynamic poses, such as jumping, galloping, cutting, spinning and sliding, can be surprisingly versatile but require a shower with advanced skills to realize their full potential. Bad behavior poses, such as rearing, bucking and cross cantering, have extremely limited performance potential. They might do well in certain circumstances, but generally speaking, these models are best left at home.

I think it's easiest to show cantering models,
particularly in the English division with its emphasis on Over Fences classes.

Another important consideration is headset. Obviously, this varies from breed to breed and discipline to discipline. However, a model its head on or slightly ahead of the vertical is always going to be more versatile than a horse with its head way up or way down.

The grey paloose's head position makes her a better performance prospect than her Appaloosa sister

Surprisingly, the quantity and quality of model's hair also has an effect on its performance potential. Big, dramatic hair often interferes with tack fit. Additionally, windblown manes and flagged tails tend to detract from the neat, workmanlike look favored in most performance disciplines.  Although this is not a deal breaker, it's much easier to show a horse with a flatter, more conservative 'do.

Where there's a will, there's a way.  Big haired models can excel in performance but  often require custom made tack and lots of sticky wax.  It's much easier to start with something that is tack friendly.
Sir Sproing! is a Breyer Wintersong customized by Melanie Miller and owned and shown by Erin Corbett.

My last piece of advice is to choose a horse you really like. Performance showing is fun, but it's hard work and can be very frustrating at times. I find the entire experience a lot more enjoyable when I'm partnered with a model that makes my heart happy, win or lose. 

I have a soft spot for mules, ponies and all things Purdy.  Also, I love showing models with one ear forward and one ear back.   I consider this the ideal performance expression--interested in the obstacle, yet listening to the rider.  Models like these make me happy.

Please note--these very general guidelines intended to help novice showers choose a versatile performance model. They're not hard and fast rules, and they don't apply in every situation. Exceptions abound, and some of the hobby's most interesting (and infamous!) performance horses do not meet any of my "easy performance horse" criteria. That said, it's hard to go wrong with a well liked horse in a normal show ring gait that's on the bit and features low profile hair.

Thoughts, questions, differing opinions?  Please post them in the comments section!

Almost wordless Wednesday

My drive to the barn takes me past several large vacant lots that are absolutely overrun with prairie dogs. I realize that most locals consider these critters to be the worst kind of pests. I'm not a a farmer or a rancher, though. I grew up in Los Angeles County, and I think prairie dogs are cute. I had my camera in the car yesterday, so naturally I felt compelled to pull over and take a few (!) photos of the dogs as they went about their business. This post also includes some pictures of Rev because he's cute, too. Enjoy!

Plastic saddles

This is what most people think of when they hear the words "plastic saddle."  

Western saddle historians, however, are likely to picture something entirely different, and that other type of plastic saddlery is the topic of today's post.  

Between the years 1946 and 1949, the All Western Plastic Company built sixty five plastic Western saddles at their factories in Lusk, Wyoming and (later) Scottsbluff, Nebraska.  These saddles were built on a traditional bull hide covered wood tree and featured leather ground seats.  All the remaining saddle pieces were cut from 1/4" sheets of plastic called Geon. 

In addition to saddles, the All Western Plastic Company also produced other tack items including bridles,

martingales, 

and colored aluminum bits. 

Legendary cowboy, Roy Rogers, was a spokesperson for the saddle company and made many public appearances riding in his flashy saddles.  Unfortunately, that wasn't enough to sway public opinion.  The plastic saddles never  really caught on, and production ceased in 1949.  

Wyoming rancher, Tom Harrower, is the premier authority on plastic Western saddles.  I had the good fortune to meet him and view his booth at 2012 edition of Brian Lebel's Old West Show & Auction in Denver, Colorado.  

The photos accompanying today's post were taken during that visit.

It's worth mentioning that this was not my first brush with full scale plastic saddles.  My boss at Brighton Feed and Saddlery had a most impressive saddle collection which included two made by the All Western Plastics Company.  If memory serves correctly, the saddle in this picture used to sit right behind my desk.

Tom is working on a book about the history of the All Western Plastics Company and plastic saddlery.  Anyone with information about these saddles is asked to get in touch with him.  

More information about the All Western Plastics Company can be found on the Niabrara County Library website.  Be sure to check out the link section for more pictures of these unique saddles!

Horse shaped objects

Model horse hobbyists love initialism. OF, CM, SR, RR, LSQ, PSQ, NIB, MIB, OOAK, YCI, PSA, HR, PS--it's not unusual for an average MH$P ad to read like a cup of alphabet soup!  

Fortunately, most of these abbreviations are pretty easy to decipher. Over the years there have only been a few that left me scratching my head with confusion. One of those was HSO.  I can't tell you how long I struggled with that before someone clued me in to its meaning.

In case you're also wondering--this is an HSO.

Not a horse

It's not a horse exactly.  Instead, it's a Horse Shaped Object.

Even Emma knows that something ain't right!

Horses have realistic anatomy and biomechanics.  HSO's do not.  

Validator won't even look at him!

I don't actively collect HSO's, so I was a bit dismayed yesterday when Seth came home with the afro horse (he swears it was a rescue and no money exchanged hands). Today, however, I've decided to embrace its awfulness. Besides, there are some advantages to having a few HSO's at my disposal.

Gretchen enjoys some of the carpet ponies, July 2012

The Gift Horse giveaway of 2012 depleted my carpet herd substantially. I need to be ready the next time a little girl comes to visit.

Only one of these horses still lives in Colorado

And, you know, should that girl want to take an HSO home with her... Well, that can definitely be arranged!

I'm scared

My husband just texted me this picture.

Please save me from the scary HSO!

Pack rat

By popular demand...

Nutmeg has become a pack rat.

Thanks for the suggestion, Terri!

Rugby's rerun

If today's post feels like a rerun, there's a good reason. I've documented several resin repairs on this blog, including a previous multi-leg repair on this exact model. Although I'm not generally a fan of presenting the same information multiple times, in this case, I've decided to make an exception. The ability to properly fix things is a godsend to a hobbyist on a budget. Hopefully, the educational value of this post will outweigh its "been there/done that" factor! 

My Lorenz resin, Rugby, came home from his first show with a cracked tail.

The first step in this kind of repair is to remove the crack in its entirety using a dremel motor tool, an X-acto knife or a carbide scraper.

Once the crack has been eliminated, it's time to fill the gap.  This can be done with a mixture of baking soda and super glue, a two part epoxy such as Apoxie Sculpt or a combination of the two. In this case, I used "super soda" covered with a thin layer of epoxy.  

I allowed the epoxy to cure completely, and then sanded the entire repair area with 400 grit sandpaper. This is perhaps the most important step in creating an invisible repair, so I took my time and made sure the area was really, truly smooth before I proceeded...

to fixing the finishwork! I dry brushed the bare resin with thin layers of acrylic paint.

Slowly but surely...

the bald spots began to fill in!

Finally, I added some pastel dust and sealer... 

and once again, Rugby is as good as new. 

I sure hope he stays fixed this time. I'd hate to have to write yet another repair post about him!